The sights and sounds of Tehran are returning - but five weeks of war have left a markpublished at 19:49 BST 16 April
Lyse Doucet
Chief international correspondent

One week into a fragile ceasefire, some of the sights and sounds of Tehran have returned – traffic is flowing, some shops are open including florists selling spring blooms, restaurants are back in business.
But airports are still shut, schools are still closed, and a near-total internet blackout hasn’t been lifted.
Five weeks of war have left many marks. Prices in the markets, high even before hostilities erupted, are even higher now. And many small businesses didn’t survive the shutdown.
Security is visibly tighter: more checkpoints; more uniformed and plain-clothed forces; armoured vehicles are positioned around main squares. And some squares are plastered with Iranian flags and photographs of the dead.
They are gathering places for mourning, for defiant messaging from government supporters. New banners also stretch across buildings and overpasses including ones honouring the “school children of Minab” killed on the first day of the war.
Tehran is a city where people now seem to live day-to-day, where everyone we meet tells us - they don’t believe this truce will last.
















