Major Ade Clewlow commands the Gurkha Signal Squadron in York. He's attending a language course in Nepal's second city, Pokhara.

He has agreed to keep us in touch with his experiences.

Today, along with four other colleagues, we put our rucksacks into the back of a Landrover and departed Pokhara bound for Gorkha, three and a half hours away.

I decided to visit Gorkha for two reasons: Firstly it has a significant place in the modern history of Nepal, and secondly, two of my soldiers in the Squadron in York have got family in the town. Back in November, standing on the ranges at Strensall, I promised them that I would do my best to call in and say hello.

Within a few miles we had encountered a coach headfirst in a ditch

The journey by road was as dangerous as usual.

Within a few miles we had encountered a coach headfirst in a ditch, a vehicle overtaking on a blind bend towards us and the usual stray herds of cattle wandering the streets with impunity (they are all sacred and therefore untouchable).

It still amazes me how cars will screech to a halt to avoid a cow, but regularly drive perilously close to young children walking on the side of the road.

Gorkha, when we arrived, was under tight security, mainly because it is the heartland of the Maoist Insurgency, with the key leaders living in the hills within a few hours of the town.

We were questioned over our destination by the Army and Police, and allowed to go on our way. We were soon given a background brief by our hosts on the general situation, which included the fact that there was an Army-imposed curfew at night. It was the first such experience for me.

Overloaded lorry narrowly misses a very young girl walking to school along the kathmandu to pokhara road

In the afternoon we climbed up to the top of the highest hill in the area, at about 4500 feet, in order to visit a Royal Palace.

Gorkha is famous because it is from this town, and specifically this Palace, that the king of the Gorkha District, a couple of hundred of years ago, expanded his influence throughout the country, which was then only a collection of smaller kingdoms.

After successfully uniting the country under one King, Gorkha became the symbolic heart of the monarchy and modern day Nepal. Since the Royal family and Government moved to Kathmandu though, Gorkha has been rather neglected.

I found the Royal Palace disappointing. It was much smaller than I imagined, roughly the size of a large detached family house, with a separate, smaller building that is still used by the King every year.

Although the building was richly decorated with erotic wooden carvings and built of local brick, it was also infested with pigeons. We also had to leave our cameras and any leather shoes outside before we entered the ramparts. Once inside we were surrounded by people of all ages, milling around, worshiping Gods and making sacrifices.

The floor was covered in blood and feathers. Bells were ringing, horns were being blown and children were running around oblivious to everything but there own games.

Sunset over Nepal on Valentine's day

Add to this scene a large number of Royal Nepalese Army soldiers, who are stationed in the Palace for three months at a time to secure it from the Maoists, and the whole picture was quite chaotic.

However, it is easy to forget that the wooden beams, bricks, tiles and other materials were all carried up by man. And I can tell you, it is a hard walk.

However, the views across the lower hills, out towards the Himalayas to the north were spectacular and to have had the opportunity to visit this ancient Nepalese historical site was quite memorable.

Later on that day I also managed to fulfil my other key duty and met up with the fathers of my two soldiers. I was even invited into one house to share a drink in the afternoon.

To be sitting in a living room, in a house in Gorkha, Nepal with the family of one of my soldiers, currently based all the way back in York, was a proud and humbling moment, and one I will never forget.

Previous entry | Next entry