SOWING SEEDS
1st February 2006

February sees the start of seed sowing for all sorts of crops. A few early sowings outside, under cloches, is possible in favoured areas where the soil has been covered and allowed to dry out and warm up. Sowings in containers, cold frames and unheated greenhouses can commence for hardy annuals and early vegetables.

Where there is a heated propagator seeds will quickly germinate and require pricking out into seed trays and individual pots.

Good hygiene is very important when sowing as the slightest hint of a fungus disease and every seedling will collapse and die.

Use a bought seed compost and new pots and trays. If containers are being reused then wash them out in hot water with a fungicide added.
Sow the seed thinly to avoid having to transplant the small seedlings. The smaller the seed the closer to the surface it is sown. Very fine seeds such as those of begonia are sown on the surface of the compost.

Label the trays of seedlings with the date sown and the variety name written in waterproof ink.

Use tap water to irrigate the seedlings rather than rain water from a water butt as it probably contains disease spores. As soon as the seed germinates remove any covers and allow light to reach the seedlings. Lack of light will draw the young plants up making them spindly.

I always treat seedlings with Cheshunt Compound to prevent the damping off disease that kills small plants. To prevent bruising the tender stems always hold the seedlings by their leaves. Tomato plants are susceptible to Tobacco mosaic virus disease. It can be transmitted to the plants from cigarette and pipe tobacco so if you smoke wash your hands well before working with the plants.

Protect the young plants from vermin and snails. Even wood lice (slaters) can manage to munch at a thin tender stem. Think before you sow the whole packet. Often, especially with salad crops such as lettuce and radish, it is better to sow a few seeds every fortnight to ensure succession without having a glut at one time.

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